I use the ideal boxes and frames as I simply cannot lift a full depth super full of honey and I have tennis elbow in both arms also. The only drawback is my cheap little extractor doesn’t hold the frames neatly (but it still works). If I have to move a full depth super I transfer some of the frames to an empty box and then lift the remaining frames and box. It isn’t quick but it is the only way I can manage.
Sorry, I have come across this post a little late.
I use Ideal supers exclusively on my hives, and I don’t think i’d go back to anything else. Having the shallower frame as a lighter option is only one of their advantages, I also find the fact that they ‘cap off’ quicker a great advantage when honey flow isn’t strong.
You can probably find several hundred posts on here of my Ideal frames, but an example of using them through a full season can be found here:
If you do stay with full depth supers, the methods @Wickett describes are what I have done previously. If you have a spare super, or even a nucleus corflute box (5 or 6 frames), some of the frames can be moved out of your honey super before lifting the box.
I have switched to using two full depth boxes for brood and the winter food. All above are ideals, the most wax melter tolerant (it gets lots hotter than I thought) and electric extractor balance friendly are the wooden ones.
You can get 3/4 height boxes and frames as well as a sort of a mind point. I have two of them, and naturally mixed up the frames between boxes. As you do.