Honey Super Lifting - Advice Needed


#1

Hi All

I have recently injured my lower back and lifting full depth homey supers is not helping. Looking for a solution and was thinking of using a engine lift crane on wheels to assist.

The other solution may be to go down to small frames but I think I would need to buy a whole new set up from what I have (10 frame better bee hive)?

Any advice or suggestions from those bee keeper with bad backs would be greatly appreciated.

Dave


#2

Hi

10 frame full depth Supers are great for the brood box but a lot of people have great success and significantly better honey production using Ideal depth Supers (approx. 1/2 depth)

Sam (RBK) has had great success using Ideal depth Supers that is well documented on this site, as have many others.

Anyway, its just a thought as a fix to your issue as full depth Supers are too heavy in anyones language as I see it.

regards

Eric


#3

Hi,

I use the ideal boxes and frames as I simply cannot lift a full depth super full of honey and I have tennis elbow in both arms also. The only drawback is my cheap little extractor doesn’t hold the frames neatly (but it still works). If I have to move a full depth super I transfer some of the frames to an empty box and then lift the remaining frames and box. It isn’t quick but it is the only way I can manage.

Good luck with your back!

Kind regards,

Fiona.


#4

Sorry, I have come across this post a little late.

I use Ideal supers exclusively on my hives, and I don’t think i’d go back to anything else. Having the shallower frame as a lighter option is only one of their advantages, I also find the fact that they ‘cap off’ quicker a great advantage when honey flow isn’t strong.

You can probably find several hundred posts on here of my Ideal frames, but an example of using them through a full season can be found here:

If you do stay with full depth supers, the methods @Wickett describes are what I have done previously. If you have a spare super, or even a nucleus corflute box (5 or 6 frames), some of the frames can be moved out of your honey super before lifting the box.


#5

Hi,

I have switched to using two full depth boxes for brood and the winter food. All above are ideals, the most wax melter tolerant (it gets lots hotter than I thought) and electric extractor balance friendly are the wooden ones.

You can get 3/4 height boxes and frames as well as a sort of a mind point. I have two of them, and naturally mixed up the frames between boxes. As you do.

Cheers,

Roland


#6

Sorry to hear about your injury, but I’m glad you are determined to keep active.

Perhaps, finding a helper by becoming a mentor. Two lifting together cuts the load.

I’m not sure how long term your injury is. If you’re injury is not too severe and a complete change of equipment is not wanted then maybe reduce the number of frames and use dummy boards.

9 frame spacing would lighten the honey super. Replacing some with dummy boards would be lighter plus insulate the hive and give the bees a hangout.

https://www.thorne.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1942